A map and satellite image of the route of the walk, courtesy of Sandro Bugeja.
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And some photos below, courtesy of Silvan Mugliett.
George Cini
Above: The exquisite beauty of Il-Blata tal-Melħ, close to Baħrija. Below: Green pastures in the lean winter months. Photo: Malta Ramblers Association.
"By sunset we are wending our way across fields of wild thyme. The aroma is sensational. I crumble some on my salmon sandwich. Beat that for a walking supper.
"The sun plops into the sea and we return to Mellieħa to find a free rock festival in full swing..."
This is the sensuous manner in which Nick and Liz Hallissey describe - in this month's edition of the magazine Country Walking - the walks they enjoyed tremendously in Malta during a recent three-day visit.
With a circulation of 120,000, the monthly magazine is distributed in the UK, Europe and the US.
The Hallisseys, who were guests of the Phoenicia Hotel in Floriana, were accompanied on their walks by members of the Malta Ramblers Association, among them Lino Bugeja, Romano Cassar and Annalise Falzon.
The authors wax lyrical about country walks during the lean tourist months as they recall the breathtaking and awesome sites they have been to, such as the Blata tal-Melħ, close to Baħrija Għar Lapsi, Binġemma, Dingli cliffs and the Victoria Lines, which they liken to "Hadrian's Wall with sunshine".
The authors write that the brave little island is now fighting yet another battle in its tumultuous history, this time to win the hearts and minds of walkers.
"If they (walkers) can look beyond the lack of creature comforts and focus on the magic moments Malta yields, they can help the locals turn this rough diamond into a real gem," the Hallisseys wrote.
Ramblers Association president Lino Bugeja said when contacted that this type of exposure puts more responsibility on the association so that the impetus it started three years ago is maintained.
"Through such publicity, the Malta Tourism Authority and those responsible for opening up the countryside and the coastal zones will, hopefully, realise the importance of rambling as a tourist attraction," Mr Bugeja said.
The action by the Land Department to clear public areas that had been taken over by third parties is indeed most welcome.
Ramblers hope that further action would make more of the countryside accessible to the public, to whom it belongs, Mr Bugeja added.
Some photos from today's walk, led by Romano
Climbing up from Gnejna
Approaching Ras il-Pellegrin
Gnejna on a winter's day
Beneath Ras il-Pellegrin
Approaching the top
Walking towards Fomm ir-Rih
Wied il-Hmar
Our secretary addressing the multitude (at lunch)
Starting from our meeting place, we crossed Wied San Martin and through almost unknown pathways we crossed the roundabout near St.Dorothy’s School, passed by the chapel dedicated to St.James in the outskirts of Zebbug, till we reached Wied ta’ Bakkja or il-Wied tal-Baqqija. We succeeded to ramble along this valley upstream reaching Wied San Anton & continued towards the wayside chapel dedicated to San Blas, where we had a very short rest, just sufficient to be able to observe some interesting graffiti on its façade. Afterwards we headed uphill till we reached another wayside chapel dedicated to Santa Lucija & San Nikola. Finally we had a well-deserved rest on the promontory situated between il-Wied tal-Isqof on one side, & Wied il-Luq on the other side.
Passing by ir-Razzett tal-Isqof, we descended towards il-Wied tal-Isqof through a typical footpath ( in Maltese called minzel ), crossed the same valley & continued rambling towards the tal-Virtu promontory. Finally we descended through Wied il-Merhliet & using secondary roads, we crossed the Rabat-Zebbug main road and reached our starting point after some 4 ½ hours.
Walk leader : Simon
Distance : 17 km
Some info on Razzett ta' l-Isqof, provided by RAM President Lino Bugeja:
The Razzett ta' l-Isqof was built by Bishop Baldassare Cagliares (1615-1633). However, the coat of arms on the facade is that of Davide Cocco Palmieri (hence the Palm Tree). A stone slab on the left records a notarial deed dated 23 August 1792 probably relating to an extension of the razzett.
The large cave under the servants' quarters with a running stream and a large stone table is a very important feature. It's a romantic hide-away.
Photos courtesy of Marcel Pisani
Heading towards Wied San Antón
San Blas Chapel
A well-deserved rest
Tal-Virtu promontory & Mdina Cathedral
Ir-Razzett tal-Isqof
Coat-of-Arms at ir-Razzett tal-Isqof
Heading towards tal-Virtu promontory
Il-Wied ta’ Bakkja
Today’s walk (25th October) was fully subscribed and all participants were punctual so we could set off right on time at 9.00. The forecast did not foresee any showers but the air was still rather crisp then and several of us put on a light jacket. Half an hour later all had taken it off and rolled up their sleeves. The day turned out to be glorious.
Foreign walk leaders (or shall we say “semi-Maltese”) were Bertus Zuijdgeest, a Dutchman who has been living in Malta for the last seven years, assisted by our Irish friend Maura Marlow. At the assembly point, in the car park near Migra il-Ferha (Mtahleb) Bertus briefly introduced themselves, welcomed the participants and explained where the walk would take us and a few basic rules (like not to create a big gap from the one walking in front of you otherwise the group could stretch out too much) and some sound pieces of advice (like not to walk along the path near the cliff edge as it could be very slippery at this time of the year).
Along the route which took us to the spectacular Dahlet id-Dwieb (plural of ‘debba’, a mare) a participant, taking the cue from another member who had told us what he knew about the etymology of ‘Migra l-Ferha’, informed the group of the event, or legend, which had given origin to this place name. Unfortunately no one could do the same with names like “Ras id-Dawwara “, the promontory on the left of Dahlet id-Dwieb, or of the rocks a little further on known as Il-Qaws, or of “Imtahleb”. But even Prof. Aquilina does not offer any help in this respect (he says that it comes from ‘haleb’; but probably most of us would have guessed that). A friend has now offered to look up these place names in Prof. G. Wettinger’s works.
We walked to the other side of this inlet surrounded by impressive cliffs. From there we had a frontal view of the two giant caves at sea level. The dark openings of the caves framed from above by the whiteness of the cliffs and a clear blue sky, and from below by a calm blue sea was indeed a beautiful sight. We proceeded inland to take a good look at the biggish rock-cut cave with niches and a sort of stone bed (Is this Ghar Doson?) which reminds one of the cave at Ras il-Wardija in Gozo. Again no one knew whether this was part of our archaeological heritage or a more recent undertaking.
Then we started climbing up towards Mtahleb. At this point we had a good overview of all the cliff face from Ta-Baldu till Imtahleb. The highlight in that panorama is the Mtahleb chapel precariously balanced on the cliff edge, and the rock-cut caves which formerly were inhabited and some of which still serve for storage purposes.
We then crossed part of Wied Ilma (aka Wied ir-Rum [Valley of the Roman?) and Wied Markozz and along footpaths made our way back to the starting point. It was 11.15 when we were back.
The terrain here was quite easy-going except for some rough terrain and steep but not too long incline. We had two short breaks for a quick snack, to take photos and, above all, to take in the peace and beauty of this very scenic and remote part of the island
Walk Leaders: Bertus and Maura, assisted by
Some photos below, courtesy of our intrepid photographer, Silvan Mugliett
Heading towards Wied Xkora
Explaining the way forward…!?
A defaced Coat-of-Arms on a building near Wied Xkora
Outskirts of Siggiewi
Former Chapel of San Lawrenz
Beatiful garigue at Gebel Ciantar
Gebel Ciantar with Verdala Palace in the background
The promised island…Filfla
A well-deserved rest on the cliff edge
Fawwara – Lunzjata Chapel
Ramblers having a rest
Gebel Ciantar
Descending in the vicinity of Wied Zikku
Tal-Providenza Chapel
Another short rest at Tal-providenza
Hal Xluq Chapel